Showing posts with label borneo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label borneo. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Out of the blue

I finally made it! One year after getting my PADI, I enjoyed diving in Malaysia world class diving spot, namely Sipadan! Sipadan is an Island off Sabah state in Borneo Island, in the Celebes sea. It's unique in the sense that it is a huge limestone cliff standing in the middle of the ocean. From far, it just looks like any other paradise tropical Island.

But when you get closer, you notice something weird: just 5 meters off the beach, the color of the water suddenly swaps from light blue (indicating shallow water) to dark blue (deep water): there is a huge 600 meters vertical drop just few meters off the beach!!! Quite dizzy when you swim above it...

This creates a perfect environment for underwater species and the wildlife is incredibly abundant! It's really an eye orgy! It's actually hard not to see any amazing colorful uncommon species. In few dives, I saw more that in the rest of my (rather short) diver's life: sharks, turtles, barracudas, nudibranchs, lion fish, tuna, you name it! (check Marie's blog for some underwater pix). Visibility is of course exceptional since there is not muddy ground spreading particles.

One of the most famous spots in Sipadan is Turtle's cave: as per the name, it's an underwater cave were turtles can get in but not out, like a prawn's trap. This was my first "indoor" underwater experience, and it was pretty perturbing. Marie was afraid and disoriented in the dark, so she grabbed my hand... but I've got to confess I was happy she did cause I really started to lose it a bit as well. Then as our eyes got used to the darkness and our brain managed to recover the sense of balance, we tried to swim upside down: the air breezed out was accumulating on holes on the roof of the cave, and due to reflection it really looked like puddles of water on the ground. Try to imagine yourself swimming upside down, weighting nothing, and slowly approaching those air puddles on the ceiling, dipping your fingers in it and figuring out that it feels dry in this puddle.... Really really disorienting!!! When we left the cave, a gigantic school of jack fish was swimming like a vortex, as to greet us with a welcome back to the bright world! As I said, it's eyes orgy.

The last day we tried a totally different approach: we went for a muck dive on nearby Mabul Island. It's shallower and the ground is made of sand. Visibility is of course not as good, and we have to actually look for wildlife. But it's rewarding since we got to see really strange underwater things like scorpion fish (really ugly and also dangerous), crocodile fish (still very ugly, but not dangerous), frog fish and moray eels.

Since Sipadan is a really fragile environment, it is protected and it's not possible to spend the night on it, so we found accommodation in a longhouse on Mabul Island. Mabul is a very international Island: it used to belong to Indonesia territory a few decades ago, but it's now part of Malaysia and inhabited mostly by illegal Philippinos fishermen... Some may argue that the contrast between tourists spending in a few dive several month worth of earnings from fishing is disturbing. I can't deny. But I can witness that the kids hanging out at the pontoon, shouting and jumping in the water to splash everyone looked everything but sad!!! (thanks Marie for the kiddies pix).













Check out my pictures:



Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Borneo

I'm not even gonna try to apologize for the looooong time I didn't upload this blog. What can I say? I have really gone through a rough time at work...

Anyway, I still found time during the last two month to do something I kept postponing for too long:

After traveling here and there, I can now claim that I know peninsular Malaysia pretty well. However I never stepped on East Malaysia (Borneo Island) before. In order to catch up, I flew to Sarawak state (Southern Borneo) two weeks ago to attend the Rainforest World Music Festival. This festival is especially famous because of its location: it takes place at the Sarawak Cultural Village, just in the middle of the jungle, surrounded by hills. Definitely a great location, but I wasn't that enthusiastic about the music itself. Also I was expecting some roots/trash/hippie experience with w33d smell floating all around but it was actually more a "friendly event". The day workshops were fun though! And guess what? I had a chance to listen to the unique Breton bombarde noise! So far away from Brittany, that was quite unexpected!


Bottom line: the festival was nice, but I definitely had a crush on Bako Park where Marie and I went for 3 days trek just before the festival. Bako is located on the south-west coast of Borneo Island. It's a wild park, we met only very few other trekkers. What is great about Bako is that after a really tiring walk into steep hills and moist jungle comes a great reward: the sea. Bako is surrounded by beaches and with a moderate luck you can expect to reach a desert beach just for you before sunset! It feels so good to spend a few nights in the simple wilderness. As opposed to Taman Negara, Bako discloses much more variety in the landscapes alternating rainforest with beach ecosystem or dryer meadows. I definitely hold it as the best place I've been in Asia for trekking so far. Big up for Marie who found the strength to carry my bag and find a remote river to get some water while I was literally paralyzed by recurring cramps.

We spent one day in Kuching, the main city in Sarawak before reaching back to KL: it's a very charming city. The riverbank is amazing, very calm and beautiful. Strong contrast with the average large Asian city, usually much more bustling...

Overall, a short trip (only 5 days), but as usual, very well filled!