Balik Kampung by bike

Like for all the Muslim countries, the celebration of the end of the fasting month brings up a lot of festivities in the country. In Malaysia, the Eid is called Hary Raya. For the Muslim Malaysians, Hari Raya is the time to reconcile and renew relationship with others, mainly with the family. It lasts usually a week, during which the Malays are supposed to gather with the family in their hometown and ingest as much food as their belly can contain! There is a dedicated Malay song for it, broadcast on all the radio, TV, supermarkets, cabs, food stalls, etc... This is called Balik Kampung and literally means going back to one's hometown (most likely in the remote countryside) and celebrate Hari Raya with friends and family.

Jerome and I have been totally brainwashed by the song, so we took the whole week off for Hari Raya, and decided to go on a tour in Pahang state (the most rural state of Malaysia) and go visit the Kampungs during the celebrations... Since there is almost no public transportation in this area, and to be more flexible, we rode our motorbikes. The good thing with Pahang is that it's the biggest state of Malaysia and it spreads from one coast to another. Therefore Pahang is a concentrate of the whole Malaysia.



Our trip started on the West coast along the strait of Melacca. We visited little industrialized towns with a strong Chinese influence like Muar. Those towns were created during the Spice Trade period and are now hosting most of the Malaysian industry. The West coast is from far the most developed part of Malaysia, but Jerome and I were looking for more adventurous, kampung-style attitude, so we quickly left the West coast and crossed the country from West to East, across the central mountains.

As soon as we passed the North-South highway (main trunk road in Malaysia) we instantaneously felt we reached an very different environment! No more highways, malls and tall buildings. The road became a lot more bumpy and we crossed only small dusty villages. Finally we felt we reached the middle of nowhere! The fun can take place!





On the way we stopped at Endau-Rompin park for a jungle trek. To reach the trek's starting point one must follow a dirt path for about 60 km through palm tree plantations. It seemed fun at first until the monsoon rain started to pour... Dust became mud and it became really hard to control the bikes... My bike was so mishandled that the steel fly case support got literally ripped off by the shocks. Then the trek was nice and very wild, but we felt safe because our young guide was really good. He is an Orang Asli (first inhabitants in Malaysia, they now live in tribal villages in the jungle).




At this point of the trip we were seriously exhausted and needed some rest. We spend the next two days on Tioman Island. We went straight to the Eastern side of the Island, the most quiet and wild one. We spend the next two days chilling out, diving and rock climbing. We hung out with a old Malaysian who once lived with a Dutch lady who ended up leaving Malaysia. But in the mean time they created a gorgeous half-blood Eurasian girl who took a one year sabbatical on Tioman... Yeah, this is life!

One interesting anecdote about the rock climbing thing: to pull the rope on top, we needed a local guide to show us the way. But since it was Hari Raya week, the guy was busy with the family gathering. However after few minutes he came back to us and said it was OK. So he came, along with 2 of his friends to help him setting up the climbing spot. Jerome and I felt pretty bad about it: the guy left the family gathering because of us, and for not so much money... So once everyone was more relaxed after the first climb, I told him again that we were sorry to bother them during Raya, and that since the rope was pulled up, they could leave us and come back later on to pick up the gear. But they didn't want to: he confessed to me that he was really happy to have an excuse to be released from the family thing for a while. He was bored with being a good boy and all, and he brought his best friends along at the climbing spot for them to get wasted on beers while Jerome and I were climbing! Owned!!!... Sometime I really think religions are all about hypocrisy...

After Tioman we were back on track, aiming North along the long stripe of wild, deserted sandy beach stretching for hundreds of kilometers all the way up to Thailand. That very part of the trip was actually the main reason for us to get on this trip. This ride was the most expected part! And I got to say that I was only disappointed... by the fact that we didn't have more time to spend on it! By chance the monsoon ceased pouring for few days, and riding along the beach at sunset, through small fishermen villages is a unique experience! The East coast is definitely very different from the rest of Malaysia, it really lags behind in terms of development and infrastructures.


We finally had to leave the East coast and crossed again the country from West to East through the mountains to reach Gua Musang and finally Brinchang in the Cameron Highlands. Some fresh air felt good. And I loved riding the crooked slope from Brinchang to Tapah. I only touched 4 times the concrete with my footrest...

Some figures to wrap-up the trip:

• 9 days in Pahang
  
• 1670 km by motorbike
• 6 different repairmen visited along the road (yes, bikes are local brand ;-)
• 1 Pepsi can used by repairman #2 to fix my loose wheel barring...
  
• 1 fall (but no major injury)
• 60 L of premium gasoline released in the atmosphere
• ~27 fried rice/noddles dishes eaten
  
• ~10 leeches stuck under my skin
• 6 white water rivers crossed by foot
• 999,999 liters of rain water poured over me
• Priceless: tons of fun and discoveries all along the way!

• 

In a nutshell: I was really hit by the duality of Malaysia: on one hand the Klang valley around Kuala Lumpur, its modern malls, huge elevated highways, Petronas Towers (tallest building in the world), industries, bustling development. On the other side, the rural Malaysia with many villages made of wooden stilts houses, dirt path, little markets along the road etc... Really two different countries.

Beside this, I discovered a new approach of traveling, and I sure will be back on a bike someday for another trip like that... The little man in my ear keeps whispering: "Sumatra, Sumatra"...

The French through the eyes of an American

We were delighted to have you for few days in KL, Jayna! I liked our discussions about cultural differences, about being Asian-American in the heart of Hoosierland (where I spent one year myself) and about French people and body smells ;-) Come again whenever you feel the urge to work on your French!

I wish you all the best for you voluntary action in India... Farewell!

Out of the blue

I finally made it! One year after getting my PADI, I enjoyed diving in Malaysia world class diving spot, namely Sipadan! Sipadan is an Island off Sabah state in Borneo Island, in the Celebes sea. It's unique in the sense that it is a huge limestone cliff standing in the middle of the ocean. From far, it just looks like any other paradise tropical Island.

But when you get closer, you notice something weird: just 5 meters off the beach, the color of the water suddenly swaps from light blue (indicating shallow water) to dark blue (deep water): there is a huge 600 meters vertical drop just few meters off the beach!!! Quite dizzy when you swim above it...

This creates a perfect environment for underwater species and the wildlife is incredibly abundant! It's really an eye orgy! It's actually hard not to see any amazing colorful uncommon species. In few dives, I saw more that in the rest of my (rather short) diver's life: sharks, turtles, barracudas, nudibranchs, lion fish, tuna, you name it! (check Marie's blog for some underwater pix). Visibility is of course exceptional since there is not muddy ground spreading particles.

One of the most famous spots in Sipadan is Turtle's cave: as per the name, it's an underwater cave were turtles can get in but not out, like a prawn's trap. This was my first "indoor" underwater experience, and it was pretty perturbing. Marie was afraid and disoriented in the dark, so she grabbed my hand... but I've got to confess I was happy she did cause I really started to lose it a bit as well. Then as our eyes got used to the darkness and our brain managed to recover the sense of balance, we tried to swim upside down: the air breezed out was accumulating on holes on the roof of the cave, and due to reflection it really looked like puddles of water on the ground. Try to imagine yourself swimming upside down, weighting nothing, and slowly approaching those air puddles on the ceiling, dipping your fingers in it and figuring out that it feels dry in this puddle.... Really really disorienting!!! When we left the cave, a gigantic school of jack fish was swimming like a vortex, as to greet us with a welcome back to the bright world! As I said, it's eyes orgy.

The last day we tried a totally different approach: we went for a muck dive on nearby Mabul Island. It's shallower and the ground is made of sand. Visibility is of course not as good, and we have to actually look for wildlife. But it's rewarding since we got to see really strange underwater things like scorpion fish (really ugly and also dangerous), crocodile fish (still very ugly, but not dangerous), frog fish and moray eels.

Since Sipadan is a really fragile environment, it is protected and it's not possible to spend the night on it, so we found accommodation in a longhouse on Mabul Island. Mabul is a very international Island: it used to belong to Indonesia territory a few decades ago, but it's now part of Malaysia and inhabited mostly by illegal Philippinos fishermen... Some may argue that the contrast between tourists spending in a few dive several month worth of earnings from fishing is disturbing. I can't deny. But I can witness that the kids hanging out at the pontoon, shouting and jumping in the water to splash everyone looked everything but sad!!! (thanks Marie for the kiddies pix).













Check out my pictures:

100 questions for the American Dream

The Bush administration unveiled the new version of the citizenship test for immigrants. As opposed to the previous one, it is not based on pure memory, but it is meant at assessing the knowledge of things that make America what it is.

You can take a sample test here.

I scored 83%! Georgie, I'm comiiiiing!

Any American pal reader? Would be curious to know how good you score at it?!?!

The equation proving English a weird language

There it is! After years of research, worldwide experts came up with the complex equation proving English the weirdest language on Earth:

ghoti = fish

Yes, in English, the word "ghoti" is pronounced exactly the same as the word "fish", although both are spelled in very different ways. Let's prove the equation:

• "gh" like in enough (gh = f)
• "o" like in women (0 = i)
• "ti" like in station (ti = sh)

So, to wrap up: ghoti = fish !

Please, native English speakers, have some patience for us, bothering hard to master Shakespeare's language!

Cocorico!!!...

Screw France!
Some family members and close friends ask me every now and then why I decided to live so far away from France... Once for all, here is the answer: thank you Sebastien!...

Clic-Clac

I just took my 10,000^th picture since I bought my DSLR two years ago!!! This gives a mean shooting rate of 14 pics/day...

That's amazing how digital cameras made photography easier. If you take a look at web galleries, you can notice the growing number of skilled amateurs who really reach nearly professional quality. We are now flooded daily with tons of images via the Web, the TV, the magazines, etc... The level of demand for professionals to differentiate is higher than ever. At the same time, there is a trend to give more credit to those "amateur" pictures and videos in the news. Readers are educated and know the wide range of tools available for the "pros" to manipulate their shoots and change the reality. An "amateur" looking pictures seems more credible I guess.

Anyway, I'm not pretending to be a reporter or an artist, I just enjoy watching pictures I took in places I liked, that's all! And out of 10,000 pictures, how many are worth keeping? Only one out of five since my galleries host nearly 2,000 picts. Indeed, the 10,000^th picture itself was not satisfying so it was not a keeper, but the 10,006^th was. It's the same frame as the 10,000^th, just with better DOF and exposure.

Sir, yes Sir!

Imagine you're lying on a deserted beach somewhere in Asia, let's say in Malaysia. Everything is so quiet, and you fully enjoy yourself. Aside from a tidal wave, what is the worth thing that could happen to you and spoil this very special moment?

--> an organized tour tidal wave...

Since I've spent quite some time on various Islands and touristic spots in Asia, I've noticed many of those groups of tourists traveling on an organized tour. And by "organized", I mean that each and every second of the day is organized.

You can't miss those groups if you go to the Perhentians Islands, they love this sea paradise. They are easy to spot: first they are numerous. Most of those tours gather at least 10 people. That kind of tourists likes to be surrounded by his fellows, he feels protected against all the dangers threatening him when he is so far away from home sweet home. Especially on the Perhentian Islands, this is really dangerous place. And they will always stay close to each other. It's like a school of sardines: strength lies in unity.

You can usually recognize them with their T-shirt: since they are very proud of belonging to the same tour, they make their travel a real event: they give themselves a name, they find a motto and they created a dedicated T-shirt for their group. It's mandatory for them that they wear it all the time. It's actually very clever: in the unlikely event that one of them get separated from the rest of the group, if you find him totally freaked out and lost, thanks to the name on the T-shirt, you can bring him back to his owner. You might get a reward for it.

Finally, since this is an "organized tour", well... it has to be organized, right? This is serious business. The captain of the group usually carries a loudspeaker to regularly give instructions to the group. Thanks to the captain, the tourists don't need to worry to much about what to do and where to go. The schedule is very detailed an a laminated hard copy is given to all the participants. They are told when to go to the bathroom. The captain is the master and his authority is respected: the only case when it's hard for him to keep control over the group is when it comes to food, especially when it's a buffet. In order to guarantee the ROI (Return On Investment), the participants will rush to the buffet and get as much as their plastic plate can carry. Who cares if they can't eat it all, as long as they consumed as much as possible. It's usually a real mess, and there might not be enough food for the weakers of them who couldn't reach the buffet on time. The captain is also in charge of telling jokes in the bus and of ordering them to watch through the window when the bus is passing a landmark. Gosh, a travel must be so boring without a good captain!

But the most funny part is that they don't swim without a bright orange life jacket and two large buoys around their arms. Yes, in the Perhentians. You know, this paradise tropical Island where the water is like 28°C , shallow, quiet, protected by coral reefs... I'm not kidding, that's for real!!!

As you can see, I'm not a big fan of those tours and I'm getting a bit mean. Echoing Nicolas' post (fr), I think that this type of tourism is more or less responsible for spoiling natural wonders...

Well, that said, believe it or not I was myself part of such kind event last weekend!!! Yep, I got enrolled in the Perhentian Island challenge 2007... I teamed up with sport addicted Louis and we both went through a great sport challenge in spite of the "organized tour" background.

The race consist in a mix of kayaking, running through the wild jungle, swimming (yes, with the bright orange life jacket geared up ;-), climbing steep hills. Four and a half hours of constant physical effort around noon, when the sun is the brightest and when the temperature reaches 35°C. It was really tiring but we were determined and we found the guts to finish the race and our rank is 10th out of 83 teams. We won a great medal and a money prize! There will be a one hour coverage on TV Tiga (Malaysian national TV channel 3) in October, I'll try to blog it if I can find it.

Thanks Louis!

Louis was too tall to fit in the kayak...













They didn't play La Marseillaise...

No need to push mah, just call lah!

After more than one year spent in KL I noticed that there are phone numbers painted on almost all the sign-posts, streetlights and stop lights in KL, but until yesterday I never had the curiosity to call and figure out whose number it was.

Yesterday, Marie's bike had a flat tire. I came to help and we were getting ready to push the bike over few blocks to reach a nearby garage. It was about noon, temperature was 35°C, that would have been hell! So I asked a guy passing by if he knew a bike shop closer than the one I was thinking about.

He answered: "no need to push mah, just call lah!", and he finger pointed a streetlight... He explained that repairmen write their phone number on all the streetlights within the area they cover!! One can call and get service 24/7 within 10 to 15 min ;-) But you need to speak Malay to give your location since bike repairmen usually don't speak a word of English...

Half an hour and twenty ringgits later, we were on the road again!

Way to go!...

Kiddy Kiddy!

No big story here, but just the cutest picture I ever took! (not that I'm a big fan of the "kiddy kiddy" type of picture, but I really like this one, though)!



I took those pictures a few weeks ago as Marie and I took a ride to Kuala Selangor.


















Those Silverleaf monkeys are freely roaming in the hills around the town. They are famous for the bright orange fur of their infants, before they turn to regular adults' dark hair with silver shining.










But don't give me wrong, this one is definitely my favorite kind: it can even ride a bike!!

Keep in touch!

I suck really bad at keeping in touch with people who are not around. In my case it's all the more worth since in the past 10 years I lived in 6 different locations within 3 countries...

There are so many people I still wanna be in touch with! Therefore in order to catch up with those people that count for me, I'm giving a try with the Facebook thing. I actually registered few years back when it became big in the US and everyone got excited about, but I never really got to use it since at this time I thought it was useless and I preferred IRL interaction.

But yesterday I got a message from a good old friend of mine (Sweta ;-) and it made me really happy to read about her! Of course I'd much better raise my glass with her, but it's still much better than nothing.

I'll update my contact info and update some pics soon.

So, see you around on Facebook...

Borneo

I'm not even gonna try to apologize for the looooong time I didn't upload this blog. What can I say? I have really gone through a rough time at work...

Anyway, I still found time during the last two month to do something I kept postponing for too long:

After traveling here and there, I can now claim that I know peninsular Malaysia pretty well. However I never stepped on East Malaysia (Borneo Island) before. In order to catch up, I flew to Sarawak state (Southern Borneo) two weeks ago to attend the Rainforest World Music Festival. This festival is especially famous because of its location: it takes place at the Sarawak Cultural Village, just in the middle of the jungle, surrounded by hills. Definitely a great location, but I wasn't that enthusiastic about the music itself. Also I was expecting some roots/trash/hippie experience with w33d smell floating all around but it was actually more a "friendly event". The day workshops were fun though! And guess what? I had a chance to listen to the unique Breton bombarde noise! So far away from Brittany, that was quite unexpected!


Bottom line: the festival was nice, but I definitely had a crush on Bako Park where Marie and I went for 3 days trek just before the festival. Bako is located on the south-west coast of Borneo Island. It's a wild park, we met only very few other trekkers. What is great about Bako is that after a really tiring walk into steep hills and moist jungle comes a great reward: the sea. Bako is surrounded by beaches and with a moderate luck you can expect to reach a desert beach just for you before sunset! It feels so good to spend a few nights in the simple wilderness. As opposed to Taman Negara, Bako discloses much more variety in the landscapes alternating rainforest with beach ecosystem or dryer meadows. I definitely hold it as the best place I've been in Asia for trekking so far. Big up for Marie who found the strength to carry my bag and find a remote river to get some water while I was literally paralyzed by recurring cramps.

We spent one day in Kuching, the main city in Sarawak before reaching back to KL: it's a very charming city. The riverbank is amazing, very calm and beautiful. Strong contrast with the average large Asian city, usually much more bustling...

Overall, a short trip (only 5 days), but as usual, very well filled!

Java, one Island, two worlds

I had the chance to flight to Java twice over the last weeks, once for personal travel, once for business trip, but I definitely feel like I've been traveling to two different countries: the urban sprawl of Jakarta is a the exact opposite of the quiet and gorgeous remote countryside of the rest of Java.

The first time I went there for a one week tour on Central and East Java with Pilou, Marie and a bunch of expat friends. Pilou is a good old school pal of mine. We had plenty of great times few years ago in our campus in Brittany, and we hang out a bit every now and then whenever I crash in Paris for few days. Pilou was kind enough to come visit me all the way to M'sia for a few weeks. It was also the opportunity for me to get to know his lovely special one: Aurelie.



In order to immerse Pilou straight away in a true Asian experience, we left KL almost upon his arrival, after only a very short night. There we go, en route to a one week intense experience in remote Java. On the menu: discovering the legendary Hindu and Buddhist temples of Prambanan and Borobudur ; climbing the grand volcano of Bromo (noticed the new banner on this blog?) ; visiting Surakarta and Jogyakarta ; discovering Madura Island before the Indonesian government succeeds in his attempt to transform this farmer's Island into a place for tourists. Knowing me, needless to mention that we traveled on a budget (local buses, dirty guesthouses, fried rice at the stalls, etc...) That's the only way to get an authentic taste of Java

All along our journey, I was constantly amazed by the kindness and the openness of the Javanese people. Everyone was curious to know where we came from, what we where doing in such places so far from the tourists roads. Everyone was willing to give us directions, and most of the time without ulterior motive. At some point in Surakarta bus station a crowd of Javaneses gathered around us in the blink of an eye, and everyone was shouting to advise us on the best way to reach the next hop. Don't give me wrong, I'm not naive and I know that our wallet was also very attractive, but most of the time I didn't feel that I was pushed to purchase anything. I really believe that people where flattered that we come from so far to visit their villages, and that we were able to speak (a little bit) their language. They wanted us to have the best experience of their country. This simplicity in the human contact is really appreciable. Quite a change for a European! However this is only true for the remote countryside villages. In the tourist spots (the temples for instance), it's a whole different story, and you are not a traveler anymore: you become a prey.

Bottom line: a great experience, a lot of contacts with the Javaneses, UNESCO-like sites (BTW, Prambanan and Borobudur are listed).

Only a week after this trip, I was requested to travel to Jakarta for business. IMHO Jakarta is definitely another world, made of pollution, traffic jam, violence, prostitutes, greediness. The landscape is spoiled and Jakarta is a huge soulless urban sprawl. The taxi is the only was of transportation since it's not possible to walk around.

What a contrast! I'm not Marxist at all but I can't help thinking that human beings are not made to live in big cities and that government should kick everyone back to the countryside...

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Colmar Tropical

A few year ago the prime minister's wife traveled to France over her summer vacation and had a chance to discover the charming town of Colmar, famous for its typical Alsace architecture. She actually loved it so much that she wanted to get the same back home in Malaysia.

The prime minister's wife desires are a serious issue in Malaysia, therefore it didn't take long to built a replica of Colmar's main street in the mountain area of Bukit Tinggi, 80km North of KL.

Not that I was that homesick, but I'm always open to any day trip outside of KL outskirt, especially when the bike ride is supposed to be nice, along a small path climbing up the mountains! And it was the occasion for Vincent to take his bike out of KL for the first time.

It's really astonishing to walk along this replica's streets: it's like France, but surrounded by jungle and in a 35 C moist atmosphere... It feels fake, though. It's a bit like Eurodisney's castles!

Of course there are French restaurants, and yes, it is possible to order a choucroute! Now the real challenge is: can you decently enjoy a choucroute by 35 degrees???

Health First!

Last weekend I couldn't postpone it anymore, I had to do the boring chore of grocery shopping. While in the supermarket I saw a nice and cheap made in China juice extractor. As I don't have very healthy eating habits those days, I thought I could compensate with a daily freshly squeezed fruit juice. I also brought about 10 kg of fresh fruits (mangoes, pineapple, papaya, banana, kiwi, lime, manggis, oranges, coconut milk, you name it)





To celebrate this new purchase I had some friends coming over. One of them brought plenty of cheap Philippines' Rhum... It all begun with fresh home-made Piña Colada. It ended up with exotic experiments... I'm not sure about the target completion regarding the healthy thing, but at least we had fun ;-)

Bubble Share for dummies

Following remarks I had from several Internet-illiterate readers, I think I need to publish a short manual to support my readers for a better blog experience ;-)

When you see the Bubble Share applet, feel free to click on the "play" button, it will then display the pictures embedded in the page.

If you want to browse the pictures with higher resolution, please click anywhere on the picture itself, it will redirect you towards the album hosted on Bubble Share website where you will be able to browse them full size as well as to download an archive of it.



(The one above is just a picture for the illustration purpose, it's not an actual clickable Bubble Share applet. But you can practice on the previous post just below)!!

Trekking Taman Melawati

It will soon be one year that I live in Malaysia and I now have some routines. One of them is a trek on a cliff (actually the technical term is ridge) called Taman Melawati.

One particularity of KL is that it is enclosed in a valley (Klang Valley) surrounded by cliffs. You can really tell when looking from tall buildings. And that's great because it offers plenty of nice opportunities of day treks. The Taman Melawati (officially called Klang Gates Ridge) is one of them. It actually is a WWF classified spot and the officials claim it is the biggest pure quartz ridge in the world... The Taman Melawati is located North East of KL, about 30 min bike ride from downtown. Well, that's when you know the way to the trail head. It's actually hidden at the end of a small dirt path leaving from the village called Melawati. It took me long time to discover it.

The journey to get there is quite an adventure by itself. We've been caught there by the tropical rain once. In Malaysia it can rain 10 cm in a 10 min time frame, and when this sudden huge amount of water is collected by the ridge and concentrated on the dirt path, it gets swamped in the blink of an eye. I had to ride my bike out before getting really flooded and I found myself riding in 30 cm (1 ft) of water, no kidding!! The whole exhaust pipe was sunk underwater so I had to make sure never to release the throttle to continuously exhaust gas and therefore prevent water from entering into the engine via the exhaust pipe, while praying not to fall into the ravine (couldn't see the ground because of dirty water flowing over)! Stressful time! So bad I didn't shoot pictures of it 'cause it was really impressive.

Anyway, most of the time the weather is nice and this is a really pleasant walk. I've been there about 5 times, bringing different friends each time. They all loved it. It is so unexpected to feel so remote from the city after just a 30 min ride. That's a good thing with KL: nature is never that far away. Kuala Lumpur is definitely a rather small capital. Once up there, the view is breathtaking. We actually stand at the edge of the KL area. And as we are on a ridge, we have a perfect 360 view. On one side we can see the whole Klang valley: KL and its suburbs; and one the other side the wild rainforest, the mountains, etc... Strong contrast! I like to be there, I feel like I'm at the edge of the civilized world...

Most of the time the path becomes pretty wild, but we can't get lost since it follows the top of the ridge. Sometimes it becomes more about climbing than walking! It can even be dangerous: a friend of mine survived a 2 meters fall with just minor scratches! Apart from this the real difficulty comes from the heat: there is no shadow at all and the quartz acts as a reflector concentrating the heat... That's why we usually (try to) get there by sunrise.

I heard about other nearby spots like this one, I'll keep you posted about it.






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(thanks to Guilhem for some of those pics)


A friend of mine tracked our itinerary with his GPS. Here is a Google Earth screening of it. You can download the whole kml trace here.